Images from Scotland

Okay, so I’m not going to address my golf trips to Scotland here, just the touristy, vacationy stuff. In fact, because I’ve already written about Scotland (see “Scotland Travel & Golf” under the For Your Consideration tab), I’m going to steal those words and post them at the end of this set of pictures. I’m not being lazy, just practical. And BTW, you must visit Scotland, Ireland, England some day, especially if it’s part of your heritage. You will absolutely love it!

Back in 2015, my wife Jane and I had a fun, albeit tiring, tour of Scotland.  I called it the B&B Tour because we spent eleven nights in six different bed and breakfasts.  We flew into Glasgow and toured the more modern Culzean Castle (1792) on the North Sea (west coast).  From there, we followed the lengthy Loch Ness (sorry, no Nessie sighting) northward, stopping for lunch at one of the most haunted places anywhere (Drovers Inn), and then spent two days in the Highlands near Glencoe.  If you love all things Harry Potter, this is a must stop.  Here you can hike to the site of Hagrid’s stone hut (which unfortunately is gone), visit numerous lochs that were used throughout the series (including Loch Shiel, used as a backdrop for the school), and ride the Hogwarts Express (better known as the Jacobite Steam Train) over Glenfinnan Viaduct (think HP, the Goblet of Fire).  Even if you’re not a fan, you will still love the haunting scenery, the beautiful waterfalls (Steall Falls, Meeting of the Three Waters, and Black Rock Gorge), and wonderful hikes (to Loch Leven and Signal Rock).

On our way to Isle of Skye, we toured the simply spectacular Eilean Donan Castle.  If you were asked to picture a Scottish castle, this IS the one that would pop into your brain.  As is true with most Scottish castles, a mesmerizing structural starkness is contrasted by intriguing, vibrant English gardens.  This castle was originally constructed in the early thirteenth century, though the grounds had been inhabited since the late seventh century.  In 1719, the castle was nearly destroyed by the English government that was attempting to quell the century-long Jacobite Uprising.  It lay in ruins until 1911 when two men started a restoration process that would take twenty years to complete.  Today, it looks just as it did in the 1200s – thanks to surviving architectural plans and teams of people who embraced reviving the history of Scotland.

We moved on to the Isle of Skye and stayed in the picturesque coastal town of Portree and thoroughly enjoyed the haunting, desolate scenery of the North Sea.  A hike to the Quiraing Cliffs highlighted the many trails we trod over our two days there.  Portree itself is home to many wonderful restaurants (we liked No. 1 Bosville Terrace and Sea Breezes) and quaint artsy shops (Edinbane Pottery, Skyworkes Gallery, and Skyebluegallery – which doubles as a delicious little café).  Of course, just hanging out in Portree Harbour, watching people and harbor life, is a pleasurable way to spend an afternoon. 

We then drove to the northernmost part of Scotland proper (Scrabster) and took a two hour ferry to the Neolithic world of Orkney Island.  We first visited the Ring of Brodgar, a massive stone circle (twenty-seven total) that was erected between 2500 B.C. and 2000 B.C.  Though not a classic “henge,” it is believed that Brodgar was important for religious rituals (and perhaps veneration for ancestors) and aligned for astronomical events, likely the movements of the moon.  We moved on to the village of Skara Brae, a settlement carbon dated between 3200 B.C. and 2200 B.C.  Excavation of this site commenced in 1850, but it wasn’t until 1928 that eight dwellings – completely intact and incredibly well preserved – began to emerge.  It is remarkably humbling to walk amongst abodes that may be four to five thousand years old.

On our way to Aviemore and Cairngorms National Park, we toured Culloden Battlefield, site of the end to the Jacobite Uprising (1746) that attempted to restore the Stuart monarchy to the British throne.  In what was the last battle on British soil, 1500 Jacobites were killed by government troops in less than an hour — while only a hundred British regulars lost their lives.  Though it was a sunny, warm day, walking the battlegrounds proved to be an eerie experience and reminded me of the American fields of Gettysburg, Antietam, Little Bighorn, and Big Hole.  

Outside Aviemore lies the stunningly beautiful Cairngorm Mountains and Scotland’s most popular national park.  Those of you who have visited the White Mountains of New Hampshire will recognize and love this place.  The United Kingdom’s highest funicular railway summits Cairn Gorm (4084 feet) and its windswept world.  This is an extreme biosphere that is snowcapped year round and is noted for its skiing and high winds.  On the day of our visit, the wind was constant at 50 mph, gusting upwards of 75.  Those of us who stepped outside the Ptarmigan Restaurant (the UK’s highest dining establishment and where we lunched) experienced breath-taking (literally!) hurricane-like conditions.  In the Cairngorms themselves, Jane and I enjoyed a couple of nice hikes and a relaxing auto tour of the park. 

With Jane’s vacation nearing an end (I was staying to play golf in St. Andrews with several buddies), we visited Stirling Castle and the Wallace Monument on our way to Edinburgh.  Stirling Castle dates to 1110 A.D., though the earliest surviving parts of it were built in the mid-1300s.  This stronghold endured and survived eight major sieges over its history and today attracts 500,000 visitors to its well-kept structures and beautiful grounds.  R.E.M. and Bob Dylan have even performed here.  Just outside of Stirling, we stopped at the imposing and impressive Wallace Monument, a 220-foot Victorian Gothic-styled sandstone tower that honors Sir William Wallace, guardian of Scotland who challenged the cruelty of King Edward I during the Wars of Independence (including the aforementioned Jacobite Uprising).  A brisk walk to the crown of the monument affords panoramic views of Stirling itself, the Firth of Forth, and Loch Lomond.  In Edinburgh, we were treated to a uniquely neapolitan city (yum!), one that is confidently cosmopolitan while embracing its historical and cultural ancestries.  Here you must tour the epic Edinburgh Castle, stroll the rollicking Royal Mile (that leads to Edinburgh Castle), experience the “suburbs” Old Town and New Town, and perceive the mystical Rosslyn Chapel just south of the city.  Oh, and you Harry Potter fans must coffee at Elephant House Café (which overlooks The Castle) where J.K. Rowling created the magical world of witches and wizards and penned much of The Chamber of Secrets and The Prisoner of Azkaban.  The Edinburgh to-do list is way longer than this; these are just a few of the mandatory must-do’s.