Scotland Travel & Golf

by Tom Shafer

May 19, 2020

Okay, so I have just received my first request for a specific writing – and one I have no qualms about addressing. One of my readers wanted to know if golf in Scotland is really worthwhile, or is it overhyped because it is considered the cradle of the sport. Having made this excursion twice now, I can officially respond that it is definitely worth your time – at least twice!

Of course, if you are a golfer (and even slightly addicted), Scotland-talk worms its way into your world pretty quickly. It might start innocently enough by following the British Open (or just The Open) and seeing the links courses of Scotland, Britain, and Ireland (this year for only the second time). Links-style courses are rare in America, so golfers are intrigued by the windswept, treeless vistas; the bountiful but secretive pot bunkers; the extraordinarily large and undulating greens; and, the long, powerful history. Then you meet others who have made the journey, and they talk about it with such reverence and passion, almost always extoling the listeners that they have to go and find out for themselves. After watching numerous Opens and hearing enough personal stories, you find yourself booking roundtrip tickets to Edinburgh with your buddies and making tee times all over the island.

The first time I went (in 2015), I displayed startling and extraordinary wisdom by making it a two-for-one – as in I took my wife over for an eleven-day vacation, then met my mates for ten more days of golf and juvenile behavior. This is a perfect compromise for the wife who will not allow you to go places she hasn’t been – which is a common marital malady. The two-for-one cures this condition with few side effects.

Jane and I had a fun, albeit tiring, tour of the island. I called it the B&B Tour because we spent eleven nights in six different bed and breakfasts. We flew into Glasgow and toured the more modern Culzean Castle (1792) on the North Sea (west coast). From there, we followed the lengthy Loch Ness (sorry, no Nessie sighting) northward, stopping for lunch at one of the most haunted places anywhere (Drovers Inn), and then spent two days in the Highlands near Glencoe. If you love all things Harry Potter, this is a must stop. Here you can hike to the site of Hagrid’s stone hut (which unfortunately is gone), visit numerous lochs that were used throughout the series (including Loch Shiel, used as a backdrop for the school), and ride the Hogwarts Express (better known as the Jacobite Steam Train) over Glenfinnan Viaduct (think HP, the Goblet of Fire). Even if you’re not a fan, you will still love the haunting scenery, the beautiful waterfalls (Steall Falls, Meeting of the Three Waters, and Black Rock Gorge), and wonderful hikes (to Loch Leven and Signal Rock).

On our way to Isle of Skye, we toured the simply spectacular Eilean Donan Castle. If you were asked to picture a Scottish castle, this IS the one that would pop into your brain. As is true with most Scottish castles, a mesmerizing structural starkness is contrasted by intriguing, vibrant English gardens. This castle was originally constructed in the early thirteenth century, though the grounds had been inhabited since the late seventh century. In 1719, the castle was nearly destroyed by the English government that was attempting to quell the century-long Jacobite Uprising. It lay in ruins until 1911 when two men started a restoration process that would take twenty years to complete. Today, it looks just as it did in the 1200s – thanks to surviving architectural plans and teams of people who embraced reviving the history of Scotland.

We moved on to the Isle of Skye and stayed in the picturesque coastal town of Portree and thoroughly enjoyed the haunting, desolate scenery of the North Sea. A hike to the Quiraing Cliffs highlighted the many trails we trod over our two days there. Portree itself is home to many wonderful restaurants (we liked No. 1 Bosville Terrace and Sea Breezes) and quaint artsy shops (Edinbane Pottery, Skyworkes Gallery, and Skyebluegallery – which doubles as a delicious little café). Of course, just hanging out in Portree Harbour, watching people and harbor life, is a pleasurable way to spend an afternoon.

We then drove to the northernmost part of Scotland proper (Scrabster) and took a two hour ferry to the Neolithic world of Orkney Island. We first visited the Ring of Brodgar, a massive stone circle (twenty-seven total) that was erected between 2500 B.C. and 2000 B.C. Though not a classic “henge,” it is believed that Brodgar was important for religious rituals (and perhaps veneration for ancestors) and aligned for astronomical events, likely the movements of the moon. We moved on to the village of Skara Brae, a settlement carbon dated between 3200 B.C. and 2200 B.C. Excavation of this site commenced in 1850, but it wasn’t until 1928 that eight dwellings – completely intact and incredibly well preserved – began to emerge. It is remarkably humbling to walk amongst abodes that may be four to five thousand years old.

On our way to Aviemore and Cairngorms National Park, we toured Culloden Battlefield, site of the end to the Jacobite Uprising (1746) that attempted to restore the Stuart monarchy to the British throne. In what was the last battle on British soil, 1500 Jacobites were killed by government troops in less than an hour — while only a hundred British regulars lost their lives. Though it was a sunny, warm day, walking the battleground proved to be an eerie experience and reminded me of the fields of Gettysburg and the Little Bighorn.

Outside Aviemore lie the stunningly beautiful Cairngorm Mountains, home to Scotland’s most popular national park. Here, the United Kingdom’s highest funicular railway summits Cairn Gorm (4084 feet) and its windswept world. This is an extreme biosphere that is snowcapped year round and is noted for its skiing and high winds. On the day of our visit, the wind was constant at 50 mph, gusting upwards of 75. Those of us who stepped outside the Ptarmigan Restaurant (the UK’s highest dining establishment where we lunched) experienced breath-taking (literally!) hurricane-like conditions. In the Cairngorms themselves, Jane and I enjoyed a couple of nice hikes and a relaxing auto tour of the park.

With Jane’s vacation nearing an end, we visited Stirling Castle and the Wallace Monument on our way to Edinburgh. Stirling Castle dates to 1110 A.D., though the earliest surviving parts of it were built in the mid-1300s. This stronghold endured and survived eight major sieges over its history and today attracts half a million visitors to its well-kept structures and beautiful grounds. R.E.M. and Bob Dylan have even performed here. Just outside of Stirling, we stopped at the imposing and impressive Wallace Monument, a 220-foot Victorian Gothic-styled sandstone tower that honors Sir William Wallace, guardian of Scotland who challenged the cruelty of King Edward I during the Wars of Independence (including the afore-mentioned Jacobite Uprising). A brisk walk to the crown of the monument affords panoramic views of Stirling itself, the Firth of Forth, and Loch Lomond.

In Edinburgh, we were treated to a uniquely neapolitan city (yum!), one that is confidently cosmopolitan while embracing its historical and cultural ancestries. Here you must tour the epic Edinburgh Castle, stroll the rollicking Royal Mile (that leads to Edinburgh Castle), dine in the “suburbs” Old Town and New Town, and experience the mystical Rosslyn Chapel just south of the city. Oh, and you Harry Potter fans must coffee at Elephant House Café (which overlooks The Castle) where J.K. Rowling created the magical world of witches and wizards and penned much of The Chamber of Secrets and The Prisoner of Azkaban. The Edinburgh to-do list is way longer than this; these are just a few of the mandatory must-do’s.

We’ll crap. I’ve just spent 1200 words NOT discussing Scottish golf. Oh well, those of you who need to utilize a two-for-one to go now have a perfect roadmap to get ‘er done!

I know that many analysts/websites like to rank golf courses from one to infinity, but I’m not that guy. I just can’t draw from my many years of playing and simply declare that this particular course is the very best one I have ever experienced. What I can do is group courses according to my own subjective criteria, one that doesn’t necessarily disparage any of them. I can honestly say that I have never played a bad golf course. I can always find aspects that I like: a nice layout, quick greens, beautiful scenery, friendly customer service, accommodating amenities (restaurant or pub, driving range, etc.). But, any golf experience can be somewhat ruined when these elements are faulty, poor, or lacking. For me, that doesn’t ruin the course itself. In the end, golf is all about hitting the proper shots and stuffing the ball in the hole with the fewest strokes. Everything else is just icing – though it’s nice when the icing makes the cake even more delicious. So, here are my “rankings.”

Best Overall Experience: the Old Course, Kingsbarns, and Prestwick

The Old Course (St. Andrews) is a no-brainer, and not just because it is the elder statesman of golf. This Old Tom Morris layout is iconic, starting in the middle of St. Andrews, wandering through coastal dunes out to the sea, then finishing with the treacherous Road Hole (17th) and the Valley of Sin (18th) back in the middle of town. The course itself is always immaculate, and each hole, because of the history, is simply immemorial.

Kingsbarns (Kingsbarns, just south of St. Andrews) is the new kid on the block (opening in 2000), but it is quickly making a name for itself (after hosting the European Tour’s Dunhill Links Championship and the Women’s British Open). This is a stunning piece of property, and the course takes full advantage it. Striking views of the North Sea are visible while playing the rolling hills above it; six holes actually bring the North Sea into play. The amenities are top-notch, and the driving range is perhaps the best one I have ever utilized.

Prestwick (Ayr), the Birthplace of The Open designed by Old Tom Morris, is a consummate links-style course that employs numerous blind shots, innumerable pot bunkers, and firm, fast greens. Twenty-four British Opens were hosted here (the last in 1925), so history just oozes. The staff is friendly, accommodating, and welcoming.

Most Beautiful: Elie Golf House Club, Crail Balcomie, Castle Course, Kingsbarns

Elie Golf House Club (Elie) was the very first course I played in Scotland, and I am so glad it was. This is a beautiful property, and a distinctly unique layout. This par 70 course sports sixteen par fours ranging from 252 yards to 466 yards and two treacherous par threes, one 214 yards and the other just 131 yards – but targeted directly at the North Sea. From the periscope that towers over the starter’s hut to the gorgeous views of the North Sea coastline and the town of Elie, this is a golf experience you will certainly remember. Oh yeah, and this is another Old Tom Morris design.

Crail Balcomie Links (Crail, south of St. Andrews) is an Old Tom Morris design (and no, he didn’t design EVERY course in Scotland!) that takes full advantage of its shoreline setting. Another unique layout, this course tallies six par threes, nine par fours, and three par fives, each one challenging in its own right. You will love and hate Hell’s Hole (#5), a long (447 yards) but beautiful par four that demands a tee shot over the North Sea — and just as likely hate Craighead (#13), a long (214 yards) uphill par three that is perched on a steep cliff. But, the stunning scenery of the final five holes will more than make up for any playing disappointment you may have experienced to this point.

The Castle Course is the newest addition (2008) to the St. Andrews Links Trust, and may be the most beautiful yet most challenging course I have ever played. At 6759 yards, this par 71 track tests you with difficult tee shots, undulating terrain that creates tricky yardages, and winds that constantly blow at twenty-five plus miles per hour. Add to this extremely fast greens and several holes that bring the North Sea into play (including the 184-yard par three seventeenth directly over the sea), and you will ultimately be ecstatic that there are spectacular views of St. Andrews and the sea from every corner of the property.

Most Challenging: Carnoustie, Duddingston, Castle, Elie

Of course, Carnoustie Golf Links (Angus) makes this list for everyone from high handicappers to Frenchman Jean Van de Velde, who infamously lost his chance to win the Open Championship in 1999 by triple bogeying the par four eighteenth on Sunday afternoon. (The unheralded Scot Paul Lawrie beat Van de Velde and Justin Leonard in a four-hole aggregate playoff.) This is not the most challenging hole, but is a sampling of what can happen when you stray just a little on this layout. Oh, and the scores for that 1999 championship in case you were wondering? The players who got into the playoff were six over par, while notables Davis Love III and Tiger Woods finished at +10. And, your winner was ten strokes behind the third round leader (Van de Velde) at the start of the last round. The course itself (with yet another assist from Old Tom Morris) is a nice mix of long and short holes, and changing winds challenge every shot. And according to many pros, Carnoustie may be the best-bunkered course in the world. You must bring your A+ game to this one!

Duddingston Golf Club (Edinburgh) is one of the most challenging municipal courses I have played. The layout feels like an American venue, but the use of multiple blind shots and a challenging burn bring you right back to Scotland. Strategically placed bunkers and numerous elevation changes also help to create a stern but fun test of golf. Pleasurable views of Arthur’s Seat, an 823-foot mountain-hill that towers over the course, merely compliment the experience.

Most Fun: St. Nicholas, the New Course, Jubilee, Eden

I won’t go into great detail about these courses, but suffice it to say, when are you not having fun on a golf course?

Prestwick St. Nicholas Golf Club (Ayr) is a traditional Scottish links that follows the beautiful coastline along the Firth of Clyde. The course and greens are hard and fast, and the layout provides a variety of holes that are both challenging and fun.

The New Course (St. Andrews) is the oldest “new” course in the world. Laid out beside its older brother (the Old Course), the New features undulating terrain and firm, challenging greens. And though it might be sacrosanct to admit, in some ways, the New is better (and more difficult) than the Old. (No haters now!)

The Jubilee Course (St. Andrews) can be demanding, but this layout is more generous than some of the other others. Lots of variety as well, and firm, fast greens.

The Eden Course (St. Andrews) is the easiest and least stressful of the courses that I played in Scotland. It is a fun layout with shorter holes and more opportunities for birdie. However, you can’t let your guard down because trouble does lurk for those wayward and loose shots.

Well, that’s it, my full tour of Scotland travel and golf – except it isn’t. I have all but ignored the lovely town of St. Andrews. If you like history, you must visit St. Andrews Castle, St. Andrews Cathedral, and Blackfriars Chapel. These are all ruins, but they are stark, mystical, and beautiful. If you like pubs, you can’t go wrong at the Dunvegan, the Criterion, Central Bar, or Greyfriars Inn. If you want some good food, try Little Italy, the Steak Barn, the Seafood Ristorante, or Forgan’s. And again, I am just scratching the surface of St. Andrews.

I know I can’t make you go to Scotland, but if you are a golfer (or just a lover of travel), how can you NOT go based on what you’ve just read? And, Scotland has so much more to offer — there is so much more to experience and explore. So have at it! Get out there! See Scotland! See the world!